![]() Don't worry about running your battery down, the 2.5-liter glove compartment also houses a USB-C power source to keep you rockin'.Ī Smartkey feature lets you leave the key in your pocket while the actual ignition switch is finger actuated and will work with gloved hands, within reason. ![]() However, the glass is well vented for a nice smooth transition from the pocket to the slipstream and a much-reduced head-buffet effect for effortless cruising.īehind the screen, a negative-bias LCD display delivers high-vis metrics with a dark background behind a light-colored font and manages the nifty Honda Smartphone Voice Control system that links to your device for hands-free phone calls and music control. Up top is a clear screen that sorta' sports a rally look due to its narrow build, and it comes with a four-position height adjuster that unfortunately takes both hands to manipulate, so you can't do it while underway. It throws the incoming air outboard into something approaching laminar flow with the sides and protects the swept area of the inverted fork tube.Īngry-alien LED headlights join with LED blinkers to ensure good, two-way visibility up front, day or night. The molded front fender copies a look that's more commonly associated with sportbikes, but it isn't all about aesthetics. Honda borrowed from its own street-tastic Forza line and adventuresome X-ADV models for this ADV350 project, and why not since both enjoy a measure of success in their respective categories? Blocky bodywork gives it a bit of a chunky look that is edgy and confidence-inspiring on both turf and tarmac. Negative-bias LCD display & Honda Smartphone Voice Control system.Thats the only part i didn't get with it. All i have left to do now is make a cable stay for the speedo cable. ![]() The light works good even with the new face, it lights it up pretty well, i will try to get a shot in the dark to show that later. Took it for a spin, its very close to the GPS on my phone, its maybe off a mph or two, which for its age is not too bad accuracy wise. Installed and connected both mechanically and electrically. I used that rubbed spot to help locate the ring back to its original location, yes i know it doesn't really matter, but it helped me line everything up and work the ring back onto the body having a reference point, the body is NOT perfectly round and so after removing the ring you could see where i folded the lip back more in some places then others, so knowing how it came off helped put it back on.įinished. Note i did not repaint the front ring, i liked it as it was, showing some hand rubbing where someone reset the trip odometer over and over and wore the finish down, just gives it a refreshed but not totally new look and i like that. After i got it as tight as i could with the wooden dowel i switched to a brass rod and went around a few more times pushing down on the lip tightening it up and smoothing it out. Getting the front ring back on wasn't that bad, i got it back on then i put it face down and i slowly worked that lip back down around the edge with a wooden dowel, i put a ring of tape around the body of the speedometer so i wouldn't scratch the paint. ![]() Freshened it up and won't fade as fast as the plastic, the last thing i want to do is take this apart again, it was an adventure. It wasn't an easy job but it looks nice! I installed the new face today and as you can see i also repainted the needle with a very light coat of white paint then orange for the needle tip. ![]()
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